WHAT’S YOUR BEEF?

Whether you’ve decided to splurge on a fancy meal or are just craving some iron-rich beef, buying steak can seem a bit overwhelming. There’s a whole lot of information that goes into making the right steak choice. The cut, of course, is important and your choice will be largely determined by your budget and how you plan to cook the meat (see our guide to cuts). However, you still need to decide if you’ll buy from a full-service butcher or a supermarket meat case; grass-fed or grain-fed; meat graded Prime, Choice, or Select; conventionally raised or organic. Who knew buying ingredients for dinner could involve so many decisions?

In order to make a truly informed choice about your dinner, you should be aware of a number of factors when buying a good steak—you’ll never prepare a truly great steak without first having good meat to cook with.

ORGANIC

Organic beef-that is, beef that is fed only certified organic grains and grasses, never treated with growth hormones or antibiotics, and given unrestricted outdoor access-is expensive and hard to come by. The good news for consumers is that it is possible to find beef that is raised humanely, without hormones (which may increase cancer risk), antibiotics (which promote antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria), or feed containing animal parts (which can spread bovine spongiform encephalopathy, better known as mad cow disease). Look for beef that includes a guarantee that the animals were never given antibiotics, hormones, or nonvegetarian feed.

GRASS FED

These days, grass-fed beef is showing up in the market, creating some confusion. All cows start out on a diet of grass, but conventionally raised cows are “finished” on a diet of grains for quick weight gain. Many environmentalists, animal rights advocates, and health experts argue that beef raised solely on a diet of grass is better-better for the planet because grass takes less energy to grow; better for the cows because feeding on grassy pastures is what nature intended; and better for your health because it is higher in nutrients and lower in fat.

BUYERS GUIDE

Simply put, buying from a butcher gives you the most control over all of the other choices you’ll make. Not only will a butcher have plenty of cuts and very fresh meat, but being an expert, he or she will be able to help you choose wisely. If buying direct from a butcher isn’t possible, be sure you’re getting fresh, quality meat by checking for good, red color and taut, clear plastic wrap. Pass up any packages in which blood has pooled in the bottom, a sure sign that the meat has been sitting on the shelf for a while.

The USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) assigns all meat a grade based on quality as determined by several factors, including carcass maturity, firmness, texture, and color of lean, as well as the amount and distribution of marbling (those white flecks of fat that when well distributed throughout the muscle make a good steak tender, juicy, and flavorful). Prime is the highest grade, followed by Choice and Select. A good rule of thumb is always to buy the highest grade of meat you can afford. Of course, flavor, tenderness, and juiciness are always of the utmost importance. To be sure of a tasty steak, look for meat with consistent marbling, red blood, and nice color.

Two important points to keep in mind when choosing between grass- or grain-fed beef are flavor and fat-to-lean ratio. Grass-fed beef is more strongly flavored—some say its richer, while others are less complimentary—and it is much leaner, making it easy to overcook. In the end, your own politics, beliefs, budget, and taste will help you decide which to buy.

STORING BEEF

Most beef can be stored in the packaging it comes in at the bottom of the refrigerator for up to 3–5 days (depending on how fresh it is when you buy it), but check the expiration date, if it’s provided on the packaging. Ground beef, hamburgers, and variety meats do not keep as well and should be eaten within 1–2 days.

You can freeze beef by removing the supermarket packaging and wrapping it well in freezer plastic wrap, then aluminum foil; wrap cuts individually. Freeze steaks for 6–12 months, roasts for 4–12 months, chops 4–6 months, and ground beef, hamburgers, and variety meats 3–4 months. Frozen beef should be defrosted in the refrigerator until completely thawed. Place it in a dish or on a tray to catch any drips. Do not refreeze raw beef that has been defrosted; however, if you use the defrosted beef to make a dish that is cooked, you can freeze the cooked dish.

In "The Book of Steak" recipes and food styling by Lincoln Jefferson, introduction by Robin Donovan, Love Foods (an imprint of Parragon Books), UK, 2013. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

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