THE COOK'S BOOK - SAUCES AND DRESSINGS
Most home cooks appear to regard saucemaking as some secret or mystical exercise, exclusively reserved for temperamental chefs in posh restaurants.
During my many years in top kitchens I have often been asked, “How do you know what goes with what?” and “How do you make sauces?”
Admittedly, at first sight the saucemaking aspect of cooking is enough to send any cook into despair; the repertoire of classic sauces alone is so vast that a mere listing of their names can baffle a beginner. However, saucemaking is not rocket science, and learning a few of the basic sauces (called mother sauces) will give you the ability, freedom, and confidence to produce many more.
For any cook, saucemaking can become one of the most rewarding branches of cookery.
What is a sauce?
A sauce is best described as a flavorful liquid, made from a variety of bases that have been lightly thickened. Stocks of all flavors should be made with the utmost care and attention, as they ultimately form the base flavor, quality, and success of your sauce. Ideally, I suggest making your own stocks, whether meat, fish, or vegetable.
Although a little time-consuming, they are well worth the effort. If your time is limited, use a bouillon powder or consommé. Sauces can be thickened by a simple reduction (rapidly boiling to evaporate excess liquid) or by the addition of a little starch. The majority of the classic sauces are made with one form of starch or another, but sauces are also thickened by other means.
Hollandaise or mayonnaise sauces are emulsified with eggs; butter sauces with butter; cream sauces are finished with cream; and vegetable sauces are thickened with puréed vegetables. There are even some sauces thickened with animal blood, although these are somewhat rare nowadays. Complex sauces are the basis of great French cuisine and the glory of any dinner party or special occasion.
They may be time-consuming, but in terms of flavor they really pay dividends in the finished dish.
The variety of sauces
The term sauce covers a very wide range of accompaniments. There are the many classic French sauces, such as white béchamel, blond velouté, brown veal and chicken jus sauces, warm white butter sauces (beurre blanc and beurre fondu), and cold savory butter sauces.
There are the salsas of Mexico and Spain, and the hot and spicy sauces of the Far East. Also included are light vinaigrettes (French dressings) for salads or fish dishes, and the relishes and chutneys synonymous with old England. Over the last decade or so our eating patterns have changed dramatically. Our knowledge of world cuisines has increased, with many of us traveling and eating out more often than ever before.
Today’s chefs are responding to demands for lighter sauces that are simpler, less rich, and more easily prepared than those of the past, whether they are for everyday use or for special occasions.
Marrying sauces with foods
Whatever sauce you choose to make, it is extremely important that it complements, highlights, and enhances the flavor of the dish it accompanies, whether it be eggs, fish, vegetables, meat, poultry or game, salad, or a dessert. The sauce should never overpower the food or be overpowered by it. Generally, a sauce must have a clear flavor, good texture, and a glossy appearance.
In this chapter you will find the basics of cooking a good sauce, suggestions for sauce variations, and some sauces in new styles for your enjoyment. Today, supermarkets offer an increasing range of ready-prepared sauces, but nothing can compare to the flavors of fresh sauces made in your own kitchen. One last thought: I always teach my cooks that the refinement of flavor of any sauce, or dish for that matter, depends on the seasoning, which in turn depends entirely on the tastebuds of the cook.
A good sauce always can be achieved if it is frequently and appreciatively tasted during its making. I wish you “Bon appetit!” as you go forward and improve your knowledge and appreciation of great sauces.
BASIC SAUCEMAKING TECHNIQUES
1. Whisking
Rapid whisking will emulsify and blend ingredients, aerate and add lightness to sauces containing egg yolks or cream, and make white sauces smooth and glossy. You can either use a supple, slim balloon whisk or a flat coil whisk. To incorporate the maximum air, whisk from the bottom of the bowl or pan up, working around the sides and across the middle. Cooked sauces that contain egg yolks are usually whisked in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water to prevent them from curdling.
2. Skimming
One of the most important and often overlooked steps in saucemaking, skimming removes fat, foam, and other impurities, which would otherwise spoil the flavor and appearance of a sauce. Skim regularly during the cooking process, using a shallow perforated skimmer to remove any foam or other impurities as they rise to the surface of the sauce. Brown sauces made in advance can be chilled and any excess fat that solidifies on the surface can be skimmed off with a spoon.
3. Straining & Sieving
Straining removes solid ingredients and sieving helps emulsify liquids to make elegantly smooth sauces. To sieve, hold a fine-mesh strainer over a pan or bowl and pour in the sauce. Using the back of a ladle, press the sauce through the strainer. Discard solids left in the strainer.
4. Reducing
Reducing a sauce will decrease its volume through evaporation and thus intensify its flavor. To reduce, cook in an uncovered pan over high heat, stirring occasionally.
5. Deglazing
Pan sauces and gravies are made from the deglazed caramelized juices released from roasted or fried meat, poultry, and vegetables. To make a pan sauce, remove the food from the pan and spoon off excess fat, then deglaze the caramelized juices by adding stock, water, or wine and stirring to loosen the particles and incorporate them into the liquid. Reduce and finish as required. Making a sauce like this gives a richness and depth of flavor that cannot be achieved just by simmering ingredients.
When butter is heated gently, the milk solids will separate from the butterfat and the clear liquid fat — clarified butter — can be poured off. Unsalted butter is better for clarifying than salted butter. Clarified butter can be heated to higher temperatures than ordinary butter, so is often used for sautéing. I also like to use clarified butter for hollandaise and béarnaise sauces.
1. Cut butter into cubes, put into a pan, and heat gently just until the milk solids have separated from the fat. Do not let the butter get too dark or its fresh taste will be destroyed. Skim off any froth.
2. Carefully pour the clear liquid butter into a bowl. Discard the milk solids in the pan. Skim off any impurities on the surface of the clarified butter.
WAYS TO THICKEN A SAUCE
Most sauces are given body and consistency by combining a flavor some liquid with one or more thickening agents. Some are added at the beginning of the saucemaking process, while others are added at the last minute. In addition to the thickeners below, sauces can also be thickened with blood (for poultry and game dishes) and colorful fruit or vegetable purées.
Blending
Many sauces can be quickly made in a blender. Hollandaise and pesto are examples. Blenders—goblet or immersion—are also great for blending purées and liquids together for light, last-minute sauces.
Seasoning
Salt and pepper are necessary to enhance the flavors in a sauce, but they should be used in moderation. Before serving, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. White pepper is preferable to black in pale sauces.
Roux
This cooked mixture of butter and flour is used to thicken white sauces such as béchamel. Melt butter in a pan until foaming, stir in an equal amount of flour, and cook, stirring, for about 40 seconds. Stir in milk and simmer until thickened.
Bread
Bread is sometimes used to thicken sauces—bread sauce is a good example. Around the Mediterranean, bread is widely used with nuts in sauces such as Turkish tarator, Italian salsa di noci, and Spanish romesco.
Butter
Chilled butter whisked into a hot sauce gives body and shine. Be sure the butter does not get too hot, or it will separate. Take the finished sauce off the heat and gradually whisk in small cubes of well-chilled unsalted butter.
Beurre manié
Beurre manié (or kneaded butter) is a paste of butter and flour added at the end of cooking. To make it, use a fork to mix soft butter with allpurpose flour in a ratio of two to one. Gradually whisk small pieces into the hot sauce until it thicken.
Arrowroot, potato flour & cornstarch
These forms of starch are always mixed with a little cold liquid first before being added to a sauce at the end of cooking. They will thicken the sauce immediately. Arrowroot and potato flour (fécule) are used in brown sauces and to thicken rich reduced broths, while cornstarch is the normal thickener in some Chinese dishes and sweet sauces. In general, 1 1⁄2 tsp arrowroot or cornstarch will thicken 1 cup of sauce. Mix the starch with liquid, then whisk into the sauce and simmer gently for 2 minutes to thicken. Do not cook longer or the sauce will tend to become thin again. Finish the sauce as required.
Eggs & cream
Eggs, particularly the yolks, are the thickening base of many emulsion sauces. Hot emulsified sauces such as hollandaise are cooked in a bowl over a pan of simmering water to prevent the yolks from overheating. Egg yolks mixed with cream (to make what is called a liaison) are sometimes used to enrich and thicken classic velouté sauces. A liaison is always added at the end of cooking. To thicken with a liaison, put the egg yolks and cream in a bowl and whisk in a spoonful of the hot sauce. Add this mixture to the rest of the sauce in the pan, off the heat. Return to very low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce coats the back of the spoon. Do not allow the sauce to boil or it will curdle. Serve immediately.
Always use fresh herbs in sauces. Soft herbs, such as chives, tarragon, and basil, should be chopped and stirred in at the last moment. Hardy herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, can be cooked in the sauce. Freshly crush or grind spices and add sparingly at the start of cooking. Taste and add more later, as needed.
Chief among emulsified sauces are mayonnaise, hollandaise, and beurre blanc. They are made by forming an emulsion of droplets of fat such as oil or melted butter in a liquid such as water, vinegar, or lemon juice. Egg yolk is often present to hold the emulsion stable. Emulsified sauces have a certain notoriety for separating and curdling. The key is to create—and maintain—the emulsion correctly: The speed at which the fat is added and sustaining the right temperature throughout the process are important.
MAYONNAISE
A smooth and delicious sauce made from egg yolks, oil, vinegar, and mustard, mayonnaise is perhaps the most popular of all cold sauces and forms the basis of numerous variations. It is especially good with poached and deep-fried fish, cold fish and shellfish, and cold meats. Olive oil can be rather overpowering in mayonnaise, so I recommend the use of an unflavored oil such as sunflower or canola. Being a bit of a traditionalist, I prefer to make mayonnaise using a whisk and bowl, but — for those keen on saving labor — I have also included a method using a blender or food processor. Before you start, make sure all ingredients, especially eggs and oil, are at room temperature, since they are difficult to emulsify when cold. To establish the emulsion right from the beginning, add the oil literally drop by drop to start with.
Makes 1 1⁄4 cups
2 egg yolks
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp white wine vinegar
1 cup sunflower or canola oil
2 tsp lemon juice
1. Place the egg yolks, mustard, and vinegar in a mixing bowl. Add a pinch each of salt and pepper (for preference, white pepper).
2. Steady the bowl on a dampened kitchen towel and pour in the oil—drop by drop to begin with, then a drizzle—whisking all the time.
3. Add the oil in a steady stream as the sauce begins to thicken, whisking continuously to keep the emulsion stable.
4. When all the oil has been incorporated and the mayonnaise is thick, stir in the lemon juice and adjust the seasoning to taste.
Aïoli (garlic mayonnaise)
Add 4 crushed garlic cloves to the egg yolks, then continue as for the master recipe. Perfect with hot or cold fish and as a dip for vegetables.
Rouille (chili mayonnaise)
Add a pinch of saffron and 1⁄4 tsp cayenne pepper to aïoli (above). Traditionally served with the Mediterranean fish soup bouillabaisse.
Tartar sauce
Add 21⁄2 tbsp finely chopped gherkins, 2 tbsp rinsed and chopped capers, 2 tbsp chopped parsley, 2 tbsp chopped chervil, and 2 chopped shallots to the finished mayonnaise. Good with deep-fried and pan-fried fish.
Rémoulade
Add 1 finely chopped anchovy fillet and 2 tbsp chopped tarragon to tartar sauce (left). Serve with cold meats, cold fish, and fried fish.
Truffle mayonnaise
Replace 1 tbsp of the sunflower or canola oil with truffle oil, then add a little finely shaved truffle to the finished mayonnaise. Great with fish, vegetables, and cold meats.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
For me, hollandaise is the best of all sauces—wonderfully smooth, light, and delicate. A good, well-made hollandaise has a rich yellow color, a slightly tart flavor, and a fluffy texture—somewhat like a warm mayonnaise in consistency. It is the perfect match for poached fish or vegetables and egg dishes. Hollandaise is sometimes made using simple melted butter, but I find that clarified butter gives a richer, smoother flavor. A curdled hollandaise can be returned to respectability by placing a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and whisking in the curdled sauce a little at a time.
Makes 2 1⁄2 cups
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp water
1 tsp lightly crushed white peppercorns
4 egg yolks
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, clarified
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
pinch of cayenne pepper
1. Place the vinegar, water, and peppercorns in a small, heavy-based pan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 1 minute, or until reduced by one-third (to about 2 1⁄2 tbsp).
2. Remove from the heat and leave until cold, then strain the liquid into a heatproof bowl. Add the egg yolks to the liquid and whisk together.
3. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water: The base should be just above the water. Whisk the mixture until it thickens and is ribbon-like, creamy, and smooth in texture, 5–6 minutes.
4. Place the bowl on a dampened kitchen towel to prevent it from slipping. Slowly add the clarified butter, pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream and whisking until the sauce is thick and glossy.
5. Add the lemon juice, then season with salt, white pepper, and cayenne pepper. Serve at once. If you need to keep the hollandaise warm, use a water bath or transfer it to a vacuum flask.
A hollandaise can be flavored with a variety of ingredients.
Foyot sauce
Boil 2⁄3 cup dry sherry to reduce by half. Let cool, then add to the finished sauce. Serve this with grilled meats, fish, and vegetables.
Maltaise sauce
When blood oranges are in season, there is no better sauce than maltaise to accompany vegetables, particularly asparagus. Simply add the grated zest and strained juice of 2 small blood oranges to the finished sauce instead of the lemon juice.
Mousseline sauce
Fold in 1⁄3 cup semi-whipped cream just before serving. This is good with steamed asparagus or poached fish. Try adding 1 tbsp chopped herbs too, such as chives, chervil, or tarragon.
Mustard sauce
Stir 1 tbsp Dijon mustard into the finished sauce. Serve with grilled or broiled fish or chicken.
Noisette sauce
Add 1⁄4 cup beurre noisette to the finished sauce. The nutty flavor goes well with fish.
Olive sauce
Add 1 heaped tbsp chopped good-quality black olives to the finished sauce. This is great with asparagus and egg dishes.
Saffron sauce
Crumble 1⁄2 tsp saffron threads into the vinegar and water mixture when you start to make the hollandaise sauce.
BÉARNAISE SAUCE
Made in exactly the same way as hollandaise, béarnaise sauce has the addition of tarragon and shallots infused in the vinegar. It is one of France’s best-loved sauces, enduring the test of time, even in these days of modern sauces. It is usually served, in its simplest form, as an accompaniment to grilled or broiled steaks and fish. To make béarnaise sauce, at step 1 of the basic hollandaise recipe, add 2 tbsp roughly chopped tarragon and 2 chopped shallots to the vinegar reduction. Then stir 1 tbsp chopped tarragon and 1 tbsp chopped chervil into the finished sauce before serving.
Like hollandaise, béarnaise sauce has many variations. The following are some of my favorites.
Balsamic sauce
Replace half the white wine vinegar with balsamic vinegar, then stir 1 tsp balsamic vinegar into the finished sauce in place of the lemon juice. Balsamic sauce is ideal with grilled or roasted meats or fish.
Choron sauce
Add 2 tbsp well-reduced tomato sauce to the basic recipe. The tomato sauce must be thick, otherwise it will thin the basic béarnaise sauce too much. A well-reduced tomato purée could also be used. Choron sauce is good with grilled or broiled steaks, lamb, chicken, or fish.
Horseradish sauce
For the classic accompaniment to roast rib of beef, stir 1 tbsp white horseradish into the basic sauce. This is also good with grilled or broiled fish, especially salmon.
Paloise sauce
Replace the chopped tarragon with chopped mint. Paloise goes very well with lamb.
BEURRE BLANC
Beurre blanc — also known as white butter sauce — was one of the first sauces I made when I became a professional cook many years ago, and it still stands the test of time. It is another classic emulsified butter sauce, rich in flavor and simple to prepare. Beurre blanc is great with poached and broiled fish. Lightly salted butter makes a slightly thicker sauce than unsalted butter. It is a matter of taste.
Makes 1 1⁄4 cups
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
4 tbsp dry white wine
2 tbsp cold water
14 tbsp unsalted or slightly salted butter, chilled and diced
squeeze of lemon juice.
1. Place the shallots, wine vinegar, and wine in a small pan and bring to a boil.
2. Lower the heat and reduce the contents until only 1 tbsp liquid remains, about 2 minutes. It should have a light syrupy consistency.
3. Over gentle heat, add the water, then whisk in the butter a little at a time until completely emulsified. Season with salt, white pepper, and lemon juice.
The flavor of beurre blanc can be varied by changing the type of vinegar or wine and by including other ingredients.
Beurre rouge
For a red butter sauce, replace the white wine with 6 tbsp good-quality red wine and the white wine vinegar with 1 tbsp red wine vinegar.
Herb beurre blanc
Add 1 tbsp finely chopped herbs, such as basil, tarragon, or rosemary, with the shallots.
Saffron beurre blanc
Add a pinch of saffron threads to the vinegar and wine reduction, then proceed as for the basic recipe.
By Paul Gayler in "The Cook's Book",Editor-in-chief Jill Norman,Published in the United States by DK Publishing,2006, excerpts p.23-32. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.
During my many years in top kitchens I have often been asked, “How do you know what goes with what?” and “How do you make sauces?”
Admittedly, at first sight the saucemaking aspect of cooking is enough to send any cook into despair; the repertoire of classic sauces alone is so vast that a mere listing of their names can baffle a beginner. However, saucemaking is not rocket science, and learning a few of the basic sauces (called mother sauces) will give you the ability, freedom, and confidence to produce many more.
For any cook, saucemaking can become one of the most rewarding branches of cookery.
What is a sauce?
Although a little time-consuming, they are well worth the effort. If your time is limited, use a bouillon powder or consommé. Sauces can be thickened by a simple reduction (rapidly boiling to evaporate excess liquid) or by the addition of a little starch. The majority of the classic sauces are made with one form of starch or another, but sauces are also thickened by other means.
Hollandaise or mayonnaise sauces are emulsified with eggs; butter sauces with butter; cream sauces are finished with cream; and vegetable sauces are thickened with puréed vegetables. There are even some sauces thickened with animal blood, although these are somewhat rare nowadays. Complex sauces are the basis of great French cuisine and the glory of any dinner party or special occasion.
They may be time-consuming, but in terms of flavor they really pay dividends in the finished dish.
The variety of sauces
The term sauce covers a very wide range of accompaniments. There are the many classic French sauces, such as white béchamel, blond velouté, brown veal and chicken jus sauces, warm white butter sauces (beurre blanc and beurre fondu), and cold savory butter sauces.
There are the salsas of Mexico and Spain, and the hot and spicy sauces of the Far East. Also included are light vinaigrettes (French dressings) for salads or fish dishes, and the relishes and chutneys synonymous with old England. Over the last decade or so our eating patterns have changed dramatically. Our knowledge of world cuisines has increased, with many of us traveling and eating out more often than ever before.
Today’s chefs are responding to demands for lighter sauces that are simpler, less rich, and more easily prepared than those of the past, whether they are for everyday use or for special occasions.
Marrying sauces with foods
Whatever sauce you choose to make, it is extremely important that it complements, highlights, and enhances the flavor of the dish it accompanies, whether it be eggs, fish, vegetables, meat, poultry or game, salad, or a dessert. The sauce should never overpower the food or be overpowered by it. Generally, a sauce must have a clear flavor, good texture, and a glossy appearance.
In this chapter you will find the basics of cooking a good sauce, suggestions for sauce variations, and some sauces in new styles for your enjoyment. Today, supermarkets offer an increasing range of ready-prepared sauces, but nothing can compare to the flavors of fresh sauces made in your own kitchen. One last thought: I always teach my cooks that the refinement of flavor of any sauce, or dish for that matter, depends on the seasoning, which in turn depends entirely on the tastebuds of the cook.
A good sauce always can be achieved if it is frequently and appreciatively tasted during its making. I wish you “Bon appetit!” as you go forward and improve your knowledge and appreciation of great sauces.
BASIC SAUCEMAKING TECHNIQUES
1. Whisking
Rapid whisking will emulsify and blend ingredients, aerate and add lightness to sauces containing egg yolks or cream, and make white sauces smooth and glossy. You can either use a supple, slim balloon whisk or a flat coil whisk. To incorporate the maximum air, whisk from the bottom of the bowl or pan up, working around the sides and across the middle. Cooked sauces that contain egg yolks are usually whisked in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water to prevent them from curdling.
2. Skimming
One of the most important and often overlooked steps in saucemaking, skimming removes fat, foam, and other impurities, which would otherwise spoil the flavor and appearance of a sauce. Skim regularly during the cooking process, using a shallow perforated skimmer to remove any foam or other impurities as they rise to the surface of the sauce. Brown sauces made in advance can be chilled and any excess fat that solidifies on the surface can be skimmed off with a spoon.
3. Straining & Sieving
Straining removes solid ingredients and sieving helps emulsify liquids to make elegantly smooth sauces. To sieve, hold a fine-mesh strainer over a pan or bowl and pour in the sauce. Using the back of a ladle, press the sauce through the strainer. Discard solids left in the strainer.
4. Reducing
Reducing a sauce will decrease its volume through evaporation and thus intensify its flavor. To reduce, cook in an uncovered pan over high heat, stirring occasionally.
5. Deglazing
Pan sauces and gravies are made from the deglazed caramelized juices released from roasted or fried meat, poultry, and vegetables. To make a pan sauce, remove the food from the pan and spoon off excess fat, then deglaze the caramelized juices by adding stock, water, or wine and stirring to loosen the particles and incorporate them into the liquid. Reduce and finish as required. Making a sauce like this gives a richness and depth of flavor that cannot be achieved just by simmering ingredients.
Clarifying Butter
1. Cut butter into cubes, put into a pan, and heat gently just until the milk solids have separated from the fat. Do not let the butter get too dark or its fresh taste will be destroyed. Skim off any froth.
2. Carefully pour the clear liquid butter into a bowl. Discard the milk solids in the pan. Skim off any impurities on the surface of the clarified butter.
WAYS TO THICKEN A SAUCE
Most sauces are given body and consistency by combining a flavor some liquid with one or more thickening agents. Some are added at the beginning of the saucemaking process, while others are added at the last minute. In addition to the thickeners below, sauces can also be thickened with blood (for poultry and game dishes) and colorful fruit or vegetable purées.
Blending
Many sauces can be quickly made in a blender. Hollandaise and pesto are examples. Blenders—goblet or immersion—are also great for blending purées and liquids together for light, last-minute sauces.
Seasoning
Salt and pepper are necessary to enhance the flavors in a sauce, but they should be used in moderation. Before serving, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. White pepper is preferable to black in pale sauces.
Roux
This cooked mixture of butter and flour is used to thicken white sauces such as béchamel. Melt butter in a pan until foaming, stir in an equal amount of flour, and cook, stirring, for about 40 seconds. Stir in milk and simmer until thickened.
Bread
Bread is sometimes used to thicken sauces—bread sauce is a good example. Around the Mediterranean, bread is widely used with nuts in sauces such as Turkish tarator, Italian salsa di noci, and Spanish romesco.
Butter
Chilled butter whisked into a hot sauce gives body and shine. Be sure the butter does not get too hot, or it will separate. Take the finished sauce off the heat and gradually whisk in small cubes of well-chilled unsalted butter.
Beurre manié
Beurre manié (or kneaded butter) is a paste of butter and flour added at the end of cooking. To make it, use a fork to mix soft butter with allpurpose flour in a ratio of two to one. Gradually whisk small pieces into the hot sauce until it thicken.
Arrowroot, potato flour & cornstarch
These forms of starch are always mixed with a little cold liquid first before being added to a sauce at the end of cooking. They will thicken the sauce immediately. Arrowroot and potato flour (fécule) are used in brown sauces and to thicken rich reduced broths, while cornstarch is the normal thickener in some Chinese dishes and sweet sauces. In general, 1 1⁄2 tsp arrowroot or cornstarch will thicken 1 cup of sauce. Mix the starch with liquid, then whisk into the sauce and simmer gently for 2 minutes to thicken. Do not cook longer or the sauce will tend to become thin again. Finish the sauce as required.
Eggs & cream
Eggs, particularly the yolks, are the thickening base of many emulsion sauces. Hot emulsified sauces such as hollandaise are cooked in a bowl over a pan of simmering water to prevent the yolks from overheating. Egg yolks mixed with cream (to make what is called a liaison) are sometimes used to enrich and thicken classic velouté sauces. A liaison is always added at the end of cooking. To thicken with a liaison, put the egg yolks and cream in a bowl and whisk in a spoonful of the hot sauce. Add this mixture to the rest of the sauce in the pan, off the heat. Return to very low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce coats the back of the spoon. Do not allow the sauce to boil or it will curdle. Serve immediately.
FLAVORINGS
Always use fresh herbs in sauces. Soft herbs, such as chives, tarragon, and basil, should be chopped and stirred in at the last moment. Hardy herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, can be cooked in the sauce. Freshly crush or grind spices and add sparingly at the start of cooking. Taste and add more later, as needed.
EMULSIFIED SAUCES
Chief among emulsified sauces are mayonnaise, hollandaise, and beurre blanc. They are made by forming an emulsion of droplets of fat such as oil or melted butter in a liquid such as water, vinegar, or lemon juice. Egg yolk is often present to hold the emulsion stable. Emulsified sauces have a certain notoriety for separating and curdling. The key is to create—and maintain—the emulsion correctly: The speed at which the fat is added and sustaining the right temperature throughout the process are important.
MAYONNAISE
Makes 1 1⁄4 cups
2 egg yolks
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp white wine vinegar
1 cup sunflower or canola oil
2 tsp lemon juice
1. Place the egg yolks, mustard, and vinegar in a mixing bowl. Add a pinch each of salt and pepper (for preference, white pepper).
2. Steady the bowl on a dampened kitchen towel and pour in the oil—drop by drop to begin with, then a drizzle—whisking all the time.
3. Add the oil in a steady stream as the sauce begins to thicken, whisking continuously to keep the emulsion stable.
4. When all the oil has been incorporated and the mayonnaise is thick, stir in the lemon juice and adjust the seasoning to taste.
Classic mayonnaise-based sauces
Aïoli (garlic mayonnaise)
Add 4 crushed garlic cloves to the egg yolks, then continue as for the master recipe. Perfect with hot or cold fish and as a dip for vegetables.
Rouille (chili mayonnaise)
Add a pinch of saffron and 1⁄4 tsp cayenne pepper to aïoli (above). Traditionally served with the Mediterranean fish soup bouillabaisse.
Tartar sauce
Add 21⁄2 tbsp finely chopped gherkins, 2 tbsp rinsed and chopped capers, 2 tbsp chopped parsley, 2 tbsp chopped chervil, and 2 chopped shallots to the finished mayonnaise. Good with deep-fried and pan-fried fish.
Rémoulade
Add 1 finely chopped anchovy fillet and 2 tbsp chopped tarragon to tartar sauce (left). Serve with cold meats, cold fish, and fried fish.
Truffle mayonnaise
Replace 1 tbsp of the sunflower or canola oil with truffle oil, then add a little finely shaved truffle to the finished mayonnaise. Great with fish, vegetables, and cold meats.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
Makes 2 1⁄2 cups
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp water
1 tsp lightly crushed white peppercorns
4 egg yolks
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, clarified
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
pinch of cayenne pepper
1. Place the vinegar, water, and peppercorns in a small, heavy-based pan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 1 minute, or until reduced by one-third (to about 2 1⁄2 tbsp).
2. Remove from the heat and leave until cold, then strain the liquid into a heatproof bowl. Add the egg yolks to the liquid and whisk together.
3. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water: The base should be just above the water. Whisk the mixture until it thickens and is ribbon-like, creamy, and smooth in texture, 5–6 minutes.
4. Place the bowl on a dampened kitchen towel to prevent it from slipping. Slowly add the clarified butter, pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream and whisking until the sauce is thick and glossy.
5. Add the lemon juice, then season with salt, white pepper, and cayenne pepper. Serve at once. If you need to keep the hollandaise warm, use a water bath or transfer it to a vacuum flask.
Hollandaise-based sauces
A hollandaise can be flavored with a variety of ingredients.
Foyot sauce
Boil 2⁄3 cup dry sherry to reduce by half. Let cool, then add to the finished sauce. Serve this with grilled meats, fish, and vegetables.
Maltaise sauce
When blood oranges are in season, there is no better sauce than maltaise to accompany vegetables, particularly asparagus. Simply add the grated zest and strained juice of 2 small blood oranges to the finished sauce instead of the lemon juice.
Mousseline sauce
Fold in 1⁄3 cup semi-whipped cream just before serving. This is good with steamed asparagus or poached fish. Try adding 1 tbsp chopped herbs too, such as chives, chervil, or tarragon.
Mustard sauce
Stir 1 tbsp Dijon mustard into the finished sauce. Serve with grilled or broiled fish or chicken.
Noisette sauce
Add 1⁄4 cup beurre noisette to the finished sauce. The nutty flavor goes well with fish.
Olive sauce
Add 1 heaped tbsp chopped good-quality black olives to the finished sauce. This is great with asparagus and egg dishes.
Saffron sauce
Crumble 1⁄2 tsp saffron threads into the vinegar and water mixture when you start to make the hollandaise sauce.
Made in exactly the same way as hollandaise, béarnaise sauce has the addition of tarragon and shallots infused in the vinegar. It is one of France’s best-loved sauces, enduring the test of time, even in these days of modern sauces. It is usually served, in its simplest form, as an accompaniment to grilled or broiled steaks and fish. To make béarnaise sauce, at step 1 of the basic hollandaise recipe, add 2 tbsp roughly chopped tarragon and 2 chopped shallots to the vinegar reduction. Then stir 1 tbsp chopped tarragon and 1 tbsp chopped chervil into the finished sauce before serving.
Béarnaise-based sauces
Like hollandaise, béarnaise sauce has many variations. The following are some of my favorites.
Balsamic sauce
Replace half the white wine vinegar with balsamic vinegar, then stir 1 tsp balsamic vinegar into the finished sauce in place of the lemon juice. Balsamic sauce is ideal with grilled or roasted meats or fish.
Choron sauce
Add 2 tbsp well-reduced tomato sauce to the basic recipe. The tomato sauce must be thick, otherwise it will thin the basic béarnaise sauce too much. A well-reduced tomato purée could also be used. Choron sauce is good with grilled or broiled steaks, lamb, chicken, or fish.
Horseradish sauce
For the classic accompaniment to roast rib of beef, stir 1 tbsp white horseradish into the basic sauce. This is also good with grilled or broiled fish, especially salmon.
Paloise sauce
Replace the chopped tarragon with chopped mint. Paloise goes very well with lamb.
BEURRE BLANC
Makes 1 1⁄4 cups
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
4 tbsp dry white wine
2 tbsp cold water
14 tbsp unsalted or slightly salted butter, chilled and diced
squeeze of lemon juice.
1. Place the shallots, wine vinegar, and wine in a small pan and bring to a boil.
2. Lower the heat and reduce the contents until only 1 tbsp liquid remains, about 2 minutes. It should have a light syrupy consistency.
3. Over gentle heat, add the water, then whisk in the butter a little at a time until completely emulsified. Season with salt, white pepper, and lemon juice.
Variations
Beurre rouge
For a red butter sauce, replace the white wine with 6 tbsp good-quality red wine and the white wine vinegar with 1 tbsp red wine vinegar.
Herb beurre blanc
Add 1 tbsp finely chopped herbs, such as basil, tarragon, or rosemary, with the shallots.
Saffron beurre blanc
Add a pinch of saffron threads to the vinegar and wine reduction, then proceed as for the basic recipe.
Paul Gayler began his cooking career at the tender age of 12, while assisting his mother with their family-run catering business. At the age of 16, he attended a local catering school where he passed with the highest achievable honors. He later honed his career by working in some of the finest hotels and restaurants in the U.K. and in the city of Paris. Paul then took up the position of chef at Inigo Jones, one of London’s finest and most exclusive restaurants, where he gained an enviable reputation for his high-quality food. He also introduced a gourmet vegetarian menu, the first of its kind in the U.K.
In 1991, Paul was invited to head the team of the newly opened Lanesborough Hotel, overlooking Hyde Park in the heart of London. In a short space of time, the Lanesborough, a member of the St. Regis Group, has become one of the most exclusive hotels in the world. Paul oversees all food preparation within the hotel, supervising a strong kitchen brigade of 40 chefs. He describes his style as “global contemporary,” a careful blending of flavors while maintaining classical French disciplines. Paul has received numerous awards and is in constant demand to appear on television and radio shows. His first cookbook was published in 1995, and he has since written some 12 books on various culinary subjects.
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