THE COOK'S BOOK - BASIC EGG COOKING

Egg cooking, to my mind, is characterized by two concepts: diversity and simplicity. There are so many different ways to cook eggs, yet most remain quite simple in execution. One thing is for certain, however: All egg cooking requires attention, because the threshold between done and overdone is quite narrow. Here is how to guarantee successful results. 

BOILING EGGS

This cooking method is thought to be so simple, it’s become a standard for kitchen competence, as in, “He can’t even boil an egg!” In fact, there are some important guidelines worth following: Despite the description, eggs must never be boiled, just simmered. This is because boiling can toughen whites and lead to overcooking. The unsightly green ring around the yolk is caused by a reaction between the iron in the yolk and the sulfur in the egg’s albumen.

The main reason for a ring to appear is overcooking,although using older eggs can also cause a ring. You can help to prevent a ring from forming by putting just - cooked eggs immediately under cold running water to stop any further heat penetration overcooking them. Older eggs are easier to peel, because their lower acidity discourages the whites and the shells from sticking together. Eggs straight from the refrigerator will take a few minutes longer to reach desired “doneness” than will those at room temperature.

1. Put the eggs in a pot that is large enough for them to remain in a single layer at the bottom. Cover them by at least 2in (5cm) with cold water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then immediately lower the heat so that the water simmers.

2. For soft-boiled eggs (see left), which have a set white and a runny yolk, simmer them gently for 2–3 minutes.

3. If you want hard-cooked eggs, when both the yolk and white will be set, continue to simmer, allowing about 10 minutes in total.

4. At the end of the cooking time, place the pot in the sink under the tap and run cold water into it to displace the hot water and stop the cooking process. Continue until the eggs are cool enough to handle.

5.To peel boiled eggs, crack the shell at the rounded end and, using the sides of your thumbs, push the shell and thin inner membrane away from the cooked egg, trying not to dig into the egg white too much.

POACHING EGGS

For poaching, choose the freshest eggs you can find because their whites will be thicker and less likely to disperse when cooking. To help the egg white coagulate rather than form streamers in the water, add white vinegar in the proportion of about 1 tsp to 1 quart (1 liter) water. Do not add any salt, because it discourages coagulation. Unless you are a poaching pro, you will probably want to do no more than 4 eggs at a time. For this amount, I use a large saucepan with about 6 cups of water. In professional kitchens, when serving the eggs immediately, we often plunge them into another pot of hot water, salted but without vinegar, to season them and remove any vinegary taste.

1. Bring a pan of water to a gentle boil and add a little vinegar. Have ready another pan of simmering salted water. One at a time, crack the eggs onto a small plate, without breaking the yolk, then slide carefully into the pan of vinegared water.

2. Using a basting motion, work to envelop the yolk with the white, “shaping” the egg just until the white is set, about 20 seconds. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Adjust the heat so the water is at a gentle boil. Poach until the whites appear completely set, 3–5 minutes.

3. Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift the eggs from the water and dip them into the simmering salted water for 30 seconds. Then place them on a clean dish towel to drain briefly. They are now ready to be served, on hot, buttered, toasted English muffins, for example.

SCRAMBLING EGGS

There’s more than one way to make great scrambled eggs. The method you choose depends on how you like your scrambled egg curds—large, small, or, in the French manner, totally blended to make a luscious cream. If you like traditional scrambled eggs, what you’re aiming for is what a friend of mine calls “concupiscent curds”—soft and billowing, no matter the size. To get these, keep the egg mass moving slowly and over gentle heat, and don’t overcook. The last-minute addition of cream enriches the eggs deliciously and stops the cooking so that they stay creamy.

1. Beat the eggs well, then season them with salt and pepper. Heat a nonstick or well-seasoned frying pan or skillet over medium heat, then add the butter and melt it. Pour in the beaten eggs. If you want large curds, allow the eggs to set for a bit before you start to scramble them.

2. Using a wooden spoon or heat-resistant rubber spatula, pull the mass of setting egg to the center of the pan, so uncooked egg can come into contact with the hot pan. Continue this process, stirring slowly and gently, for about 2 minutes, breaking up the curds somewhat. For smaller, “tighter” curds, don’t wait as long to start scrambling, and stir more vigorously.

3. Just before you think the eggs are done to your satisfaction, remove the pan from the heat and add the cream. Stir to mix the cream quickly into the eggs, then serve.

The French Method

The French method produces eggs that are rich and super-creamy. It’s a bit more laborious and time-consuming than the traditional method, but once you try it, you’ll probably be hooked. The eggs are cooked in a double boiler, which should be placed over hot but not boiling water.

1. Beat the eggs well, then season with salt and pepper. For extra creaminess, add some butter cut in pieces (2 tbsp butter for 3–4 eggs).

2. Melt 1 tbsp or so of butter in the top of a double boiler. Add the eggs and start stirring with a wooden spoon or whisk. Stir constantly until the eggs have thickened into a creamy mass, 10–15 minutes.

3. Add 1–2 tbsp of light or heavy cream to the eggs to stop their cooking. Stir to mix, then turn them onto serving plates.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS WHEN SCRAMBLING EGGS.

1. The eggs should be well beaten so that whites and yolks are completely combined.

2. Season with salt and pepper only after the eggs are beaten and you’re ready to cook them, because salt can thin them out, thus inhibiting a fluffy result.

3. Butter is the usual fat of choice for cooking eggs by the traditional method, although some people prefer to use oil for various reasons.

4. For the traditional method, a nonstick pan is easiest to use, but if you choose not to, your pan should be well seasoned to prevent the eggs from sticking. The pan should be preheated before butter is added—it should be hot enough to melt the butter within a few seconds, but not so hot that the butter browns before the eggs go in. I suggest that you experiment with this, starting with medium heat and adjusting the heat as necessary.

5. For the French method the eggs are best made in a double boiler filled with hot water.

FRYING EGGS

Eggs can be fried over relatively high heat, and the cooking can be accelerated by covering the pan. Doing that requires some vigilance to avoid overcooking the yolks, however. There is also the option of flipping the nearly set eggs over for a short time to create eggs “over easy,” rather than leaving them unturned “sunny side up.”

1. For 4 eggs, heat 1–2 tbsp butter, oil, or lard in a skillet. Break each egg into a saucer, then slide it into the hot pan. Baste the egg with the hot fat to help cook the yolk, and season with salt and pepper as it begins to set.

2. Cook until the egg white is set and the yolk runny or set, according to your preference. For a firm egg white, cook with the pan covered.

FRENCH FRYING EGGS

I learned this unusual method in France while working with three-star chef, Michel Guérard. Madame Guérard had a fondness for eggs cooked in this manner. It is quite different from what we think of as fried eggs, and resembles a poached egg cooked in hot fat. The frying produces a delicious caramelized taste, and the eggs look great. Following this method, it’s also easier to keep the yolks runny. Be sure you have your utensils ready, because the eggs cook very quickly. The wooden spoon for basting must be absolutely dry, otherwise the egg white will stick to it. To remove any moisture, first dip the spoon briefly in the hot oil.

1. In a heavy-bottomed large saucepan, heat 3 cups of vegetable or olive oil over high heat until the oil reaches a temperature of about 375°F (190°C). Crack an egg into a small cup, without breaking the yolk, then transfer it to a ladle. Tilt the pan slightly, then gently lower in the ladle to slide the egg into the hot oil.

2. With a dry wooden spoon, gently and quickly baste the egg with the oil until the egg has taken on an oval shape, and the yolk is completely concealed by the white. Continue with the process for 1 minute. The egg should be set and lightly colored.

3. Using a slotted spoon, lift the egg from the oil and drain it on paper towels. Before eating, season the egg with salt and pepper.

FRIED EGGS & BACON

This is my favorite Sunday breakfast. For 2 servings, brown 6 slices of good-quality bacon, preferably regular or thick-cut, then drain off most of the fat. Spread out the bacon slices in a single layer. Slide 4 eggs into the pan on top of the bacon. Season the eggs as they start to set, then cover the pan and cook until they are done to your liking, basting them with the bacon fat occasionally. Sprinkle with Tabasco or your favorite sauce for eggs, then serve with plenty of hot toast.

BAKING EGGS SUR LE PLAT

It has been said that French chefs will test the mettle of a new cook by requiring him or her to prepare this deceptively simple dish. The challenge lies in regulating both the cooking procedure and temperature so that the eggs are cooked to just the right point.

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place 1⁄2 tbsp melted butter in a small enameled cast-iron gratin dish. Season the bottom of the dish with salt and pepper (this prevents the salt from marring the appearance of the eggs).

2. Place the dish on medium heat and slide in 2 eggs, without breaking the yolks. Cover the eggs with another 1⁄2 tbsp melted butter.

3. Transfer to the oven and bake just until the whites are set and milky and the yolks have a shiny, glazed appearance, 6–8 minutes. Serve the eggs immediately.

UOVE AL FORNO

Here’s a delicious Italian-inspired version of baked eggs that’s a meal in itself. Coppa is a spicy Italian salami made from whole pork shoulder rather than ground meat. If you are unable to find it, you can substitute soppressata or Genoa salami. Serve the eggs with herbed focaccia or toasted peasant bread.

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp minced garlic

1⁄8 tsp dried red pepper flakes 1 1⁄2lb (675g) mixed greens, such as mustard greens, Swiss chard leaves, dandelion leaves, and spinach, cut into 1–2in (2.5–5cm) pieces

1⁄4 cup water

4oz (115g) thinly sliced coppa

8oz (225g) fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced

8 eggs

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Combine the olive oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes in a large skillet. Cook over medium-high heat for about 45 seconds to flavor the oil; do not let the garlic brown. Add the greens and water, and cook, stirring constantly, until the greens have wilted, 3–4 minutes.

2. Transfer the wilted greens to a shallow, 10in (25cm) baking dish. Arrange the coppa on top in a circle around the outside of the dish, leaving the center open for the eggs. Lay the mozzarella slices on top of the coppa.

3. Carefully crack the eggs onto the greens in the center of the dish. Some of the eggs may overlap the coppa and mozzarella. Sprinkle the eggs with salt and pepper.

4. Bake until the egg whites are set and the yolks still slightly runny, 10–12 minutes. Serve immediately, in the baking dish.

By Michele Romano in "The Cook's Book",Editor-in-chief Jill Norman,Published in the United States by DK Publishing,2006, excerpts p.137-140. Adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.

Michele Romano’s career began in 1971, at Serendipity restaurant. While there he was introduced to the renowned James Beard, who advised him on his career. Jobs at the Hotel Bristol in Paris and Hotel Pierre in New York were followed by a period of tutelage under Michel Guérard at his three-star restaurant in Eugenie-les-Bains. After holding several other prestigious positions, Michele became chef de cuisine at the venerable La Caravelle in New York, then in its 25th year.New York’s Union Square Cafe (USC) became Michele’s home in 1988, and six months later The New York Times elevated it to three stars. He became a partner in USC with Danny Meyer in 1993, and from a 21st ranking in the New York City Zagat Survey, the restaurant achieved No.1 Most Popular Restaurant in 1997–2002—a record. In 2003, USC’s sister restaurant, Gramercy Tavern, made No.1, to be toppled by USC in 2004. To share their passion for gastronomic pleasures with others, Danny and Michele collaborated in writing two cookbooks, The Union Square Cafe Cookbook and Second Helpings. Among many nominations and awards, Michele won the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef in New York City in 2001. Other restaurants he has opened include Tabla (1998) and Blue Smoke (2002).

Share this post